Tamarack Cellars

Located in a renovated firehouse from a World War II Army Air Base outside the town of Walla Walla, Ron and Jamie Coleman founded Tamarack Cellars in 1998 and have operated this family run winery since then. Tamarack's first vintage consisted of 300 cases of Merlot. The winery has grown considerably, now up to 20,000 cases each year. Head winemaker, Danny Gordon, has worked at Tamarack since 1999. While Gordon has no formal training in wine, he has learned from his Walla Walla colleagues over the years and his new releases are excellent. Tamarack has received considerable acclaim for their Firehouse Red in the past and their new effort, the 2013, was fruity, yet balanced, and delivers for the price. I was also particularly impressed with their 2014 Chardonnay, that was a mineral driven effort and is one of the best from Washington that I’ve tried at the $15.00 price point.

Their red wines were also solid and were taken from the warm 2013 vintage. Their 2012 Syrah is drinking beautifully now and is hard to resist with the black fruit flavor profiles. Similarly, their 2012 Cabernet is one of the best Cabernet values in the Walla Walla valley. It is a rich and layered effort that shouldn’t be missed. You can find the Firehouse Red at Costco but all other wines can be found online at https://tamarackcellars.com/store Here are the new release wines from Tamarack Cellars. #tamarackcellars

2014 Tamarack Chardonnay-  This wine was sourced from the Olsen Brothers, Lewis, Gamache, Bacchus, Sagemoor and Alderbanks vineyards. 70% was aged in used French oak from Cadus, Damy, Dargaud & Jaegle, Francois Freres, Louis Latour and Sirugue, while 30% was aged in stainless tanks, prior to bottling in March 2015. This wine opens with bright aromas of Bartlett pear, wet stone and cantaloupe. This leads to flavors reminiscent of pineapple, golden delicious apple and brioche. The minerality lingers on the tongue in the lingering finish. This is an excellent effort. Drink 2015-2020- 91

2013 Tamarack Firehouse Red- This wine is an intriguing blend of 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Syrah, 22% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 7% Sangiovese, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Grenache and 1% devoted to Counoise, Mourvèdre Malbec and Cinsault. This wine was aged 40% new oak barrels, mostly French and American oak with a small portion of Eastern European oak for 16 months. This wine has aromas of stewed prune, red cherry and dill. This leads to flavors of cocoa powder, red cherry, dill and smoked meats. This is a delicious, medium bodied effort that is meant for early consumption. This would be a fantastic steakhouse pour. Drink 2015-2020- 90

2012 Tamarack Syrah- This wine combines fruit from Columbia Valley, the Bacchus Vineyard and Horse Heaven Hills, the Alder Ridge Vineyard and the Destiny Ridge Vineyard. This was aged in 10% new Hungarian oak with the remaining 90% in second and third fill French oak for 17 months. This deep hued wine has aromas of mocha, blackberry and pencil shavings. This leads to ripe black fruits of black cherry, blackberry and blueberry pie. Thee is a nice mineral streak with good richness. I could see this pairing incredibly well with a juicy fillet mignon. Drink 2015-2022- 92

2013 Tamarack Cabernet- This primarily Columbia Valley Cab was sourced from Bacchus, Dionysus, Weinbau, Alder Ridge and Tapteil vineyards. This wine was recently released in October 2015 and is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cab Franc and 6% Merlot. It spent 24 months in French oak (65% new) and opens with aromas of anise, black olive and blackberry. This leads to a medium bodied mouthfeel, with moderate tannins and flavors of black olive, blackberry, mocha and anise. This is rock solid, with a striking minerality, and offers an excellent value. Drink 2015-2025- 92

2013 Tamarack Cabernet Franc- The Weinbau vineyard has a terrific reputation for Cab Franc, as this wine is comprised of 86% Weinbau Vineyard, (Wahluke Slope), with smaller parts from the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (9%) and Tapteil Vineyard (5%), both located in the Red Mountain AVA. This was aged in 20% new French oak with the remaining 80% used French oak. The wine opens with aromas of dill, black cherry, blueberry and oak. This leads to flavors reminiscent of blueberry, milk chocolate, blackberry and dill, with some mild to moderate tannins. I would consider cellaring this for another year. This impressive effort is a great value and I can’t help thinking how it mirrors the flavor profiles of the Januik Weinbau Vineyard Cab Franc. Drink 2016-2026- 91

2013 Tamarack Merlot- This new release Merlot was sourced from Tapteil, Weinbau, Ciel du Cheval, Seven Hills,  Dionysus, Bacchus and Gamache vineyards. It is a blend of 86% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Petit Verdot and weighs in at 14.2% alcohol. The wine has aromas of sandalwood, red cherry and raspberry. There are flavors of anise, blackberry and black cherry in a lovely mineral driven effort. This has nice weight and a silky texture. Drink 2015-2022 -91

Somm Focus on Cassandra Brown, CS, CSW, Divisional Beverage Manager at Hakkasan Group

Cassandra Brown is the Divisional Beverage Manager with Hakkasan Group, an international entertainment, dining, nightlife, and hospitality company. This group has locations across the United States, Europe, Middle East, and Asia. The name of the group is taken from its Michelin-starred restaurant that builds dining, nightlife, day life, and soon-to-be hotel concepts. Hakkasan restaurant has 11 locations worldwide, as well as Yauatcha, HKK, Sake No Hana, Herringbone, Searsucker, Yellowtail, Stack, Fix, Red Square, Kumi, Citizens and Ling Ling restaurants. A recent visit to Searsucker in Las Vegas at Caesar’s Palace impressed. The food quality was exceptional, considering the price. We ordered more than five bar menu items, including the excellent steak tartare and burrata. The wine list offers some great new world selections (http://searsucker.com/las-vegas-menus/#), including the 2013 Groth Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 91 points) and 2013 Landmark ‘Overlook’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91 points). These wine prices are reasonable and won’t break the bank. I recently had the chance to sit down with Cassandra Brown. Cassandra, the Divisional Beverage Manager with Hakkasan Group, which also manages Searsucker, has worked extensively in the food and beverage industry. She was certainly a candid and insightful interview, with a wealth of knowledge with regards to wine, wine training and education, as well as restaurant management. Here is my interview with Cassandra Brown, CS, CSW

WWB: Can you talk about your background in wine and how you came to the Hakkasaan group?

CB: I have been with Hakkasan Group for almost three years, and Divisional Beverage Manager for well over a year. Even though I came to Hakkasan with a plethora of knowledge and experience, I started as a floor Somm at Hakkasan San Francisco. I came into the job with extensive management and other experience. With regards to restaurants, aside from being a Sommelier, I’ve been everything from a back-waiter to a Director of Operations, and I’ve worked with 5 Michelin Star Chefs in different stages of their careers. I earned my Certified Sommelier credential in 2007 through the Court of Master Sommeliers and was actually one of the first persons of color to become a Certified Sommelier through the Court. It’s very well possible that I could have been the first black female to complete this, so I have been doing this for a quite some time. Soon after I completed my Certified credential, I was able to complete my CSW (Certified Specialist of Wine) through the Society of Wine Educators. I also became a professional wine judge the very next year. I’ve also earned the CWAS credential (California Wine Appellation Specialist) with honors from the San Francisco Wine School, and I’m currently pursuing my Advanced Certificate with the Wine and Spirits Education Trust of London. I currently managing the wine and beverage program for the ‘Fabric of Social Dining’ restaurant concepts, founded by celebrity Chef Brian Malarkey which encompasses Searsucker, with other locations in Del Mar, downtown San Diego and Austin, Texas, as well as its sister restaurant, Herringbonewith locations in La Jolla, West Hollywood, Santa Monica and soon to be Las Vegas at Aria Hotel and Casino.

WWB: I am impressed with the small but excellent wine list at Searsucker, Las Vegas. Can you talk about creating the wine list at Searsucker?

CB: When I came over to the ‘Fabrics’, I inherited five restaurants and wine lists at once, which was not an easy task. One of my previous positions was Wine and Beverage Director for the Left Bank Restaurant Group in the San Francisco Bay area where I worked with Michelin Star Chef Roland Passot, and I managed the wine and beverage program for 5 locations. And it’s funny, because a little while after I left, they brought in a Master Sommelier to oversee that program. In terms of the different restaurants that I work with currently, each restaurant has its own demographic and what I call a different ‘energy’. In San Diego, those guys surf, and everyone is more laid back, and wine isn’t a big focus down there, but you still want to represent the culture. Most of the people tend to be more into craft beer and cocktails, but the observing the differences gives you the opportunity to do tweaks here and there. I found it very important and valuable to listen to the people who work in the restaurants, especially those who were there before me. It’s a good way of understanding what’s best to pour in each location. I am in the process of developing a ‘signature wine’ program for the ‘Fabrics’, a core list of wines that can be shared across all the Searsuckers and Herringbones, and I would like to launch it early next year. The Hakkasan branded locations have signature wines as well, and I would like to extend that principal over to the ‘Fabrics’. And even though there are lots of similarities among the restaurants, there are a ton of differences, and I want to try and consider everything. For instance, something that will work at Del Mar and down downtown San Diego might not work in La Jolla. La Jolla is very wine savvy, and they are willing to spend a little bit extra on their wine. And in Del Mar, there is a lot of money, but people might not want to spend as much of their money, and it’s good to know that. You must always keep in mind the location of the restaurant and the people that come in there. The downtown San Diego Searsucker location tends to be a mixture of all types of people, including locals and tourists. In the Austin, Texas location, we sell big and bold wines during Formula One … the Formula One wines I call them… wines like Opus One and such.

WWB: What did you like about their wine program at Hakkasan?

CB: The Hakkasan wine program is very impressive. There is a lot that goes into constructing the wine list. The Hakkasan wine program is something that has manifested over many years. Our Group Head of Wine in London, Christine Parkinson, is very well respected around the world, and I get to work directly with her. There is a great benefit to having personal time with her and drawing from her experience. She has been with Hakkasan since the very beginning, and her work in wine is excellent. Working with her greatly enhances what I offer not only to the company but to the profession as well.

WWB: Can you talk about the wine list at Searsucker in Las Vegas?

CB: Vegas was very new to me. I would come here from time to time for work, but I never spent a tremendous amount of time here. Vegas is very pedestrian. That got me thinking about what I call ‘creature comforts’. We wanted a program that would appeal to the masses and wine that the servers and the other staff would be comfortable selling. We wanted to choose wines that would appeal to many types of people, and all types of tourists. Everything is a collaborative effort, and you draw valuable information from your team, but it is my job to also oversee the program as well as execute corporate initiatives, grow vendor relationships, tasting, and so on.

WWB: I saw that you have the Landmark wines on the Searsucker Las Vegas wine list. Can you talk about the Landmark wines?

CB: Landmark wines tend to be very consistent and very popular. The Landmark wines are extremely approachable and being from Sonoma, they offer great structure, drinkability and are food friendly. They seem to appeal to a variety of palates, regardless of what people like to drink. Aside from Searsucker Las Vegas, I’m currently pouring the Landmark wines at Herringbone Santa Monica, which is our most recent opening for Hakkasan group. Herringbone Santa Monica came swinging out of the gate, and we were pretty sure that this restaurant was going to be a hit. Over time, I have learned to consider all types of wines that work well with a variety of foods, from spicy to savory. When we opened Searsucker Las Vegas, we thought that the Landmark wines would complement the menu very well, and they will also be part of the Fabric’s signature wine selections as well.

WWB: What are some of your career aspirations in the world of wine?

CB: I really enjoy working in a corporate environment. I like being a wine buyer and working on the corporate side of wine. I have also been on the consulting side where I’ve helped restaurants develop their wine programs as well as trained their staff. I also enjoy judging. I currently judge the LA International and the California State Fair wine competitions. Wine judging is hard work, but it can be a lot of fun, and I like doing the fun things in our business. I’ve also taught wine classes in the private sector for enthusiasts. My take on wine is that wine should be fun, not intimidating. I was recently given some amazing feedback that one of my blind tasting classes at the LA County Fair went extremely well and was very popular. My approach was to take people through what leads up to the actual blind tasting process…What we look for…what makes one wine different from the one next to it…how to look for, smell and taste the differences...and how those differences help us draw certain conclusions. It’s all about the practice and prep work that leads up to taking an actual exam, not to mention all the stuff that you have to do before you even pick up a glass. The documentary film ‘SOMM’ has had a major impact, and there is a sequel that is soon be released. ‘SOMM’ showed the masses the good, the bad and the ugly of what we do as sommeliers. Our preparedness is all for our guests’ benefit and to heighten the guest experience. I am happy with whatever and wherever wine takes me, and I absolutely love working with Hakkasan Group. I would love to move up in the company, and I’m also interested in other side projects. I’m currently in the middle of the opening of Herringbone at Aria [Hotel], and I just finished the list for that venue. We’ll have some of the same things as Searsucker, but I will sprinkle in quite a few more things, like more Burgundies and Bordeaux, large format bottles, but make it fun and approachable. This list has around 120ish wines whereas other lists have around 80ish. The Fabrics are and have always been very cocktail and craft beer focused. But now with our expansion into other demographics, we are taking wine out of the shadows, finally putting more of a spotlight on wine which of course, makes me very happy!

Delmas

A winery with serious terroir, Delmas is a family project based in the rocks region of Walla Walla valley. The epicenter of this project is the SJR Vineyard, planted in 2007 and located on the western border of this Oregon AVA. Delmas focuses on making single-vineyard, estate-controlled wines utilizing sustainable farming practices with a special vineyard management focus on form, trellis structure, pruning rigor, nutrient and irrigation strategy. Some big players in wine, including Gramercy Cellars, Rotie Cellars and Rasa Vineyards, buy SJR vineyard fruit for their wines. Superstar winemaker, Billo Naravane, of Rasa, heads this project. These guys make one wine and one wine only, a Syrah. Their new release Syrah was a compelling wine from the warm 2013 vintage. I blind tasted the wine 95 points and it is a stunner. Immediately you notice the rocky soil of The Rocks region. It has beautiful terroir and balance and shows the brilliance of winemaking by Naravane. This limited production winery is hard to find and is mailing list only. Learn more about Delmas at delmaswines.com

Here is the new release 2013 Syrah from Delmas:

2013 Delmas Syrah- Billo Naravane of Rasa heads this winemaking project. The wine is a blend of 91.9% Syrah and 8.1% Viognier from SJR Vineyard in the rocks region of Walla Walla. This was aged 14 months in French oak (65% new), prior to bottling. This compelling wine opens with aromas of wet stone, smoked meats, creosote and oak. It continues to deliver rich flavors of milk chocolate, blackberry, cedar and smoked meat which flow through this textured and balanced red. Allow this at least an hour of air contact if approaching early on. (Drink 2016-2027)- 95

Groth Vineyards

A Napa mainstay, Groth has been producing high quality red and white wines for many years. Founders Judy and Dennis Groth found financial success while working for Ernst and Young in the South Bay. Dennis became chief financial officer at Atari and in 1981 they both purchased a large 121 acre parcel of land in Oakville. These vineyards are on the floor of Napa, right in the prime area for growing beautiful Chard, and Bordeaux varietals. Winemaker Cameron Parry took over as head winemaker in 2014, after previously serving as winemaker at Chateau Montelena for 10 years.
These new releases were solid, as I was particularly impressed with their Cabernet efforts in 2012, an exceptional Napa vintage. The 2012 Groth Cabernet is a rich fruit driven wine that is drinking great right out of the bottle. It would make a fantastic glass pour at any high end steakhouse. The crème de la crème here is the 2012 Reserve Cabernet, which is a massive wine that really needs another year (minimum) in the bottle to fully express itself. The Reserve has the density and structure to wrestle with some of the best of Napa. Here are the great new releases from Groth.

2014 Groth Sauvignon Blanc-This wine is a blend of 91% Sav Blanc and 9% Semillon. The grapes were 80% barrel fermented (sur lie for five months), with the rest in stainless. The lively wine opens with aromas of grapefruit, gooseberry and jalapeño pepper. There are flavors of grapefruit, peach pit, and nectarine. There is a lovely mineral steak in this impressive new release. This is absolutely perfect for shellfish. Drink 2015-2019- 91

2013 Groth 'Hillview Vineyard' Chardonnay- This cool vineyard site, located in the Oak Knoll District, was oringinally planted in 1996. This sat in 25% new French oak barrels for eight months, prior to bottling. There are aromatics of butter, poached pear and hazelnuts. Lovely minerality to this wine. There are flavors of vanilla cream, macadamia nut, and creme brûlée. Delicious wine that impresses. Drink 2015-2021- 92

2012 Groth Cabernet- The Cabernet is a blend of 88% Cabernet with 12% Merlot. This was aged 22 months in French oak barrels (65% new) prior to bottling. There are aromas of cedar, blackberry and mocha. The wine is open and polished with flavors of blackberry, graphite, anise, creme de cassis and mild tannins. There is a marvelous mouthfeel to this wine, with brisk minerality. Drink 2015-2029- 92

2012 Groth Reserve Cabernet- This rich wine, coming from the 28 acre Reserve Block at the Estate vineyard, was aged for 22 months in 100% new French oak, utilizing Vernou, Sylvain, Quintessence coopers. This also had over a year of bottle-aging prior to its recent release. The impressive bouquet opens with aromas of mocha, cassis and blackberry. There are boysenberry preserves, mocha, figs, graphite, and creme de cassis. Drinking beautifully now but this will be a long-ager. Try to resist popping the cork on this one for at least another year. Drink 2016-2035- 94

Interview with Dan Wampfler, Head Winemaker at Dunham Cellars and Review of New Dunham Releases

One of my favorite Northwest winemakers, Dan Wampfler, continues to impress with his fantastic new releases. I was recently able to taste some of the new wines from Dunham with head winemaker Dan Wampfler. Dunham Cellars was created in by Eric Dunham 1995 and is one of the older and most prestigious wineries in Walla Walla. Wampfler, formerly with Columbia Crest, has a background in making everything from Sparkling wine to Riesling to Cabernet at his former employer. Dan has brought that depth of knowledge to Dunham. His releases combine richness, fruit character and great terroir. As Dan says, he wants his wines to have a sense of place. . . and they most certainly do.
This year marks the 20th anniversary of Dunham Cellars. I was very impressed with his new release wines, especially his new release late harvest Riesling (95, WWB), as well as his 2009 Founders Reserve (also rated 94 points), a wine that was dedicated to the founders of Dunham, Eric and Mike Dunham, who tragically both passed away in the last two years. The Founders Reserve is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah from the Lewis Vineyard. It is a full bodied, terroir driven and impressive effort that will cellar beautifully for decades and represents the highest rated red that I’ve every tried from Dunham. The 2014 Late Harvest Riesling is a special wine and is one of the best of its kind in Washington. The combination of richness and acidity in this wine is nothing short of superlative. It is the perfect pairing for a rich vanilla ice cream. Here is my latest interview with Dunham head winemaker, Dan Wampfler, followed by reviews of the new release wines from Dunham Cellars. Find these wines at dunhamcellars.com ‪#‎dunhamcellars‬

WWB: Can you talk about the winemaking in the 2012 Dunham Cabernet which is your new release?

DW: I think with the prior vintage [2011] being cool and more feminine and food friendly and lower alcohol. ‘12 was a ripe vintage and we didn’t want to swing too far the other way. We wanted to capture the brightness, acidity and fresh fruit but led the vintage speak for itself. It is kind of a transitional wine from two previous cool vintages. We dialed up the new oak percentage and pressed pretty gently.

WWB: One of the most esteemed vineyards in Washington is the Lewis vineyard. I am interested in what kind of flavor profiles that you are typically able to obtain in the red wines? Can you talk about the character of the vineyard?

DW: Obviously we do a single vineyard Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah and there is a common thread of ripe cherry and cherry pie character. The Lewis Vineyard Cabernet shows that cherry pie right off the bat. The Syrah has that cherry pie character but also earth, orange peel and subtle flavors. The Cab is more dark notes and with the Merlot as well you see that cherry pie flavor profile. You see that ripe cherry with all of our wines made from the Lewis vineyard.

WWB: One of the better value wines that I have had this year from Washington was the 2012 Trutina. I was impressed with the layers, as well as the richness and structure of the wine. Can you talk about the winemaking and the blending in this wine?

DW: Trutina is our Bordeaux style blend and is Latin for balance. . . as in, don’t drink too much you might lose your Trutina. To have a balanced wine that is layered is what you want. It has 45% Cabernet, 38% Merlot, 10% Malbec, 2% Petite Verdot, and a touch of Syrah, 5%. And we have a pretty varied barrel program for this from new oak and used oak. And that is the idea to make a balanced wine that is layered and intriguing.

WWB: We talked about your new wine, the 2009 Founders Reserve and this is the first time that you have done this project with the blending all three varietals to make this wine. It comes from an exceptional vintage, 2009. Can you talk about making this wine and choosing the blend for this wine and how you saw each Lewis vineyard varietal this year?

DW: 2009 was a ripe year as you have suggested and we have always kept the Lewis Cab, Merlot and Syrah separate. We thought that this year was so exceptional and purity of varietal character and we started playing around with a blend of the three varietals. We felt that during the bench trials of blending this wine that this [current blend] was the right combination that accentuated the cherry character and no one varietal was dominant. You didn’t want to put too much of one varietal in it and to me it was a balanced, premium, Lewis blend. I wasn’t looking for specific percentage points in the blend but was looking for the most balanced Lewis wine.

WWB: I know you are big fan of Riesling and I just had the opportunity to review new late harvest release. Can you talk about what you were trying to accomplish with the wine with balance, acid structure and richness?

DW: First of all, as a winemaker I love challenges. Late Harvest Riesling is a major challenge for a winemaker. You have to be concerned about the fruit and the timing of things, like when to pick and when to ferment and when to stop the fermentation process. The goal for me with this wine, and I think in any wine, is to seek balance and the balance for me in the late harvest Riesling is acidity, mouthfeel and aromatics. There is consistency with the aromatics and flavors from vintage to vintage but I am looking to find it as viscous as I can push it and I am looking for acidity that gives you the lingering finish. I want the wine to be so it is not so sweet that you don’t want another sip but that is where the acidity comes in that it makes you want more. The aromatics with this wine evolve with time and I want people to smell it and say that this is definitely a late harvest Riesling.

Here are the new release wines from Dunham Cellars:

2012 Dunham Cellars Cabernet- This Cabernet saw 75% French oak and 25% American oak. It was bottled in Late July 2014 and weighs in at 14% alcohol. It is sourced from the Lewis Estate, Kenny Hill, Wallula Vineyard and the Tokar vineyard. There are ripe aromas of blackberry, anise, smoked pork shoulder and sagebrush. There are flavors of blackberry, anise and black olive with a velvety texture and lovely long finish. This is impressive wine that will drink beautifully for decades. Drink 2015-2030. -94

2011 Dunham Cellars Lewis Vineyard Cabernet- The Lewis vineyard is located at 1200 feet in the Rattlesnake Ridge in the Columbia Valley. It is a small, family owned vineyard managed by Betty Lewis & son, Ken Jr. The wine was aged in 83% French oak and 17% American oak and was bottled in January 2014. This cool vintage Cabernet has lovely aromatics on the nose with red cherry, blackberry, cassis and anise as well as sagebrush. There are flavors of blackberry, anise, milk chocolate and moderate tannins. This one needs time in the bottle to mature. 375 cases made. Drink 2017-2030- 93

2011 Dunham Cellars Lewis Vineyard Syrah- The wine saw 85% French oak and 15% American oak prior to bottling in January 2014. This wine is only 13.5% alcohol and the balanced effort opens with aromas of sagebrush, red cherry and milk chocolate. There are flavors of red cherry, orange zest, blackberry, and a strong mineral streak. This is done in the feminine and balanced style. Drink 2016-2030- 93

2009 Dunham Cellars Founders Reserve- This wine celebrates Dunham’s 20th anniversary. It is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 10% Syrah and was named after the recently deceased Eric and Mike Dunham. This wine has a rich and earthy nose. There are aromas of cedar, blackberry, mocha and black cherry. There are flavors of mocha, blackberry, anise and lovely balance and acid affix fire. The finish is exceptional. Drink 2015-2035- 94

2014 Dunham Cellars Late Harvest Lewis Vineyard Riesling-Aged in stainless steel, the wine was released in May 2015 and weighs in at only 7% alcohol. This has lovely aromas of orange marmalade, Lemoncello, and jasmine in this compelling nose. This wine has 30% residual sugar and there is wonderful richness and balance. There are ripe aromas of pineapple, golden delicious apple, white raisin and creme brûlée. This is ripe, concentrated and delicious. Drink 2015-2030- 95

La Jota

A winery perched on Howell Mountain, overlooking Napa Valley, this La Jota was originally founded in the 1890s by Fredrich Hess, an immigrant from Switzerland. Over time these wines received considerable accolades. In fact, they even received a gold medal at the World’s Fair of 1904 in St. Louis. Current wines are made from low yielding vines planted amongst 28 acres. The high altitude keeps the freshness and minerality to the wine. These vines are planted on volcanic soils at relatively high elevation which gives the red wines excellent richness and aging potential. The terroir of Howell Mountain also has colder temperatures at night, compared to the Napa Valley floor -- which leads to lower yields than the floor and also smaller but richly concentrated fruit. Being at higher elevation also protects the fruit from the intense temperatures sometimes experienced on the Napa floor.
Head winemaker, Christopher Carpenter has a B.A. in biology, as well as an M.B.A. in international business. After officially falling in love with wine, Carpenter completed the illustrious masters of viticulture and enology program at UC Davis. He took over as head winemaker at La Jota in 2005. His current releases were rich and impressive offerings. The 2012 Cabernet Franc is one of the best Napa bottlings I’ve tried this year. It mingles with its feminine side, with rich red fruit and acid structure that is drinking beautifully now. The 2012 Cabernet was a powerful effort that will need some time in the bottle to fully integrate. Similarly, the 2012 Merlot is powerful and rich that will benefit from 1-2 years in the bottle. Carpenter had a wonderful vintage to work with in 2012 but his winemaking is exceptional. These wines have the trademark mountain fruit and balance that you want from the Bordeaux varietals. Look for these wines at Northwest specialty wine shops such as Esquin and Wine World. You can also find them online at http://www.lajotavineyardco.com
Here are the impressive new releases from La Jota:‪#‎lajota‬

2012 La Jota ‘Howell Mountain’ Merlot-The wine comes from two vineyards located high upon a plateau overlooking Napa Valley: their estate vineyard and the W.S. Keyes vineyard. The grapes were hand-harvested and spent 20 months in French Oak (86% new). This wine opens with aromas of milk chocolate, toffee, black cherry and cassis. There are rich flavors of anise, creme de cassis, black cherry mocha and blackberry in this delicious cornucopia of fruit. This wine improves after an hour of decanting. While it is delicious now, it will improve with 1-2 years of cellaring. Drink 2016-2029- 93

2012 La Jota ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet- The La Jota Estate vineyard is located on a high volcanic plateau overlooking Napa Valley. Fruit was utilized from the state vineyard as well as the W.S. Keyes Estate vineyard, which is located one mile from their estate vineyard. The wine is comprised of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot. It saw 20 months in French Oak (89% new) and weighs in at 14.5% alcohol. The wine opens with aromatics of anise, cassis and red bell pepper in this somewhat muted nose. There are rich and dense flavors of anise, creme de cassis, blackberry and black olive. There is a dense and viscous mouthfeel. This wine is lovely right now but needs another hear or two in the bottle. Drink 2016-2035 -94

2012 La Jota ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Franc- This wine comes from a very small vineyard, the Winery Block Vineyard, planted next to the winery on Howell Mountain. It spent 20 months in French Oak (81% new) prior to bottling. The wine has intense aromas of red bell pepper, dill, red cherry and raspberry. There are flavors of red bell pepper, anise, red cherry and black olive. The minerality and acid scripture is impressive. This is very hard to resist right now but try to cellar this one for another year. Drink 2016-2030 -94

Rasa Vineyards and Interview with Billo Naravane, Head Winemaker at Rasa

This Walla Walla wine story begins with two wine collectors and oenophiles, Pinto and Billo Naravane. These guys decided to quit their jobs in the computer industry and move to Walla Walla, where they started Rasa Vineyards in 2007. What they’ve created is some exceptional, terroir driven wines. The new releases from Rasa are some of the most compelling red wine new releases from Washington that I've had this year. The 2012 Rasa 'Creative Impulse' in particular is one that shines and is made from DuBrul vineyard fruit, possibly the most famous vineyard in the state.
Billo Naravane serves as head winemaker and is one exceptional man, having a bachelor’s degree from MIT and a master’s degree from Stanford. His wine education is the one of the best out there as well, completing the wine program from UC Davis. It’s no wonder that this incredibly smart man makes some great wine. I found Billo to be incredibly friendly, knowledgeable and approachable while I visited Rasa. It was a great pleasure spending time with him and talking wine.  Here is my interview with Billo, followed by my reviews of his wines #rasa #rasavineyards

WWB: Can you talk about the style of your wines?

BN: The style of our wines lean towards France. While we cannot make French wines here in Washington, we can tilt our winemaking towards France. There is nothing wrong with Napa or Australia but we prefer the wines of France like Bordeaux and Rhone. The name Rasa means essence in Sanskrit and it is the terroir aspect of the winemaking that we are in love with. We strongly believe that the vineyard’s character should speak as well as the vintage character. If I were to pour you a vertical of our wines and describe the vintage growing conditions, I bet that you could easily identify which wine corresponded to which vintage.

WWB: How I got turned onto Rasa was in a blind tasting where I blind tasted the 2007 Rasa QED 95 points. It was one of my highest scoring Rhone style Washington wines I’ve ever reviewed. Can you talk about the wine?

BN: 2007 was a warm year and very much like 2009 except we got a little bit of a cold front coming in September and October and we got more hang time and it is one of my favorite vintages. It was in the middle of the spectrum between the cold vintages and the warm vintage. We got a beautiful range of complexity of flavors. And then we made a complete wine just from the get go. That was one of my favorite vintages. The 2007s are aging beautifully and are just entering their early phase of maturity.

WWB: I have noticed that you are able to create a beautiful texture with both Rhone and Bordeaux varietals. Can you talk about how you are able to create that lovely mouthfeel that is distinctively Rasa?

BN: As a winemaker it is difficult to have to make a wine that tastes great young and has the capacity to age and improve. We are careful to watch the mouthfeel of the wine, particularly the phenolics. The tannins come into solutions differently and you can exploit that aspect of temperature and timing of punch downs and that will influence what kind of tannins come into solution. Also with the press there is some point where the phenolics turn bitter and aggressive. You have to train yourself for that. You have to look past that sugar and hone in on the phenolic characters. That is a skill that you can only learn at the press. You can read about it all you want but you can only really learn that skill at the press.

WWB: I recently had the chance to review your 2011 vintage releases. This was a vintage where a lot of critics downgraded the vintage. But there were a couple of wines that you were able to create a rich flavor profile, despite the coldness of the vintage, particularly the 2011 Rasa ‘Creative Impulse’. Can you talk about that wine?

BN: 2011 was one of the coolest vintages on record and we tend to like those vintages. The fruit is not as voluptuous and ripe but that is never an issue at the DuBurul vineyard which is a cooler climate vineyard site. In 2011 we were taking steps in the vineyard to accelerate the ripening. In cooler years one must make a tradeoff between flavor development and yield. We had a little bit of botrytis issue to contend with as well. We took the yields down drastically (up to 60% in some cases) to ensure proper ripening. From DuBrul we got about half the yield that we normally get. This is our most expensive fruit and like and getting half the yield made it financially painful. But we had to sacrifice the yield to get the quality and it turned out to be the right call. In the end you get this wonderful texture from a cold vintage. 2012 is a warm year that you know from the start is going to make tasty wine. But 2011 to make something outstanding that year, you have to know your stuff. That was a year that differentiated your winemaking talent. For each vineyard I have sense of oak profile that I like. In the past in Washington most winemakers would use too much new oak. If the wine was red then it would go into 100 percent new oak. In my opinion this was almost always the wrong decision. I want oak to be a supporting player, not the dominant one.

WWB: You are a big fan of the 2011 vintage. Can you talk more about the vintage and how it compares to 2010?

BN: I think out of the two vintages, ’11 was definitely the colder one of the two. The fruit, I think people gravitated towards the ’10 because the fruit was riper. It is more opulent in the fruit character but in the ’11 there is this beautiful sense of finesse and sheer balance. You were able to get this razor edge of balance between the fine acidity and the tannin without having the jammier profile of fruit. We got ripe by taking the yields down drastically, and for the people that did that, they were able to get this elegant and focused flavor delineation. If you have the ’11 and ’10 side by side, you will notice that the ‘11s, generally speaking, have better finesse, elegance and more precise balance. There is a beauty in the ‘11s for the wineries that really did a good job; it is probably the best I’ve seen in Washington. I talked with a bunch of winemaker friends who were disappointed with the 2011 vintage because they didn’t get their 26 or 27 brix that year. But to me if you have wonderful flavor development, and great phenolic ripeness at 23.5 Brix, what is the problem? You have this amazing balance and flavor at lower alcohol potential. I would take 2011 every year.

WWB: Since you style of winemaking tends to be more Bordelaise, what do you do in 2013 and 2014 to have that tension.

BN: It starts in the vineyards and I go back to the quality in the vineyard. In the warmer years you try to achieve the balance in the grapes. So we actually take great steps to slow down ripening. We did that by managing the water aspect of the vines, as well as taking the canopy back drastically. We cut back the canopy about 30 to 40% and still maintained the leaf structure in the fruiting zone. The reason why we did that is it naturally slows down the vineyard. Each leaf on the plant is a sugar accumulating factor. So if you have less leaves then you have less sugar accumulation. If you take off too many leaves then there is too much sunburn. But if you take some off then it works great. In a year like 2015 where there was so much sunlight I know the grapes are going to be ripe. But how can I slow it down? The hormonal trigger in the plant gets triggered for flavor production relatively late in the cycle. If you don’t take the steps to slow it down then you have super sweet grapes but no flavor and complexity. I think vineyards that didn’t take steps to slow it down will be a little disappointed with the resulting wine. I think that you can make great wines in the warm years as well if you are paying close attention to the vineyard. I track the heat accumulation for the year, adjust the canopy and crop load. You just have your best guess at the moment and then have several passes to dial it in and get the great complexity that we want. There are a lot of winemakers that hardly ever step foot in the vineyard. They will go taste the fruit it once or twice and then bring it in. But if you never go to the vineyards during the season, I think that you are missing a huge aspect of quality control. At Rasa we let the vineyards dictate the style of the wine in a given year. We respect the vineyard’s individuality as much as the year’s individuality.

WWB: Are there any wines in the area that you find compelling or producers that you enjoy?

BN: I do love the Cote Bonneville wines and the DuBrul fruit. They make great wines across the board. I also like the Reynvann wines. You know, Christophe [Baron], I think that when he nails it, he nails it; I have had a lot of compelling Cayuse wines. Also Gramercy is excellent, all of their wines are very solid. Greg and Brandon are very talented and do a fantastic job. This is one of the wineries that we regularly trade wine with.  

New Releases From Rasa Vineyards:

2012 Rasa QED ‘Convergence’- This wine was stored for 30 months in 20% new French oak (predominantly from Troncais and Alliers) and 80% neutral French oak. It opens with somewhat muted aromas of blackberry, blueberry and sagebrush. There are flavors of blackberry, anise and blueberry. This has incredible acidity and balance. The blend is an expressive wine that improves with an hour in the glass. Up there with the 2007 as the best QEDs that have been released. Drink 2015-2028- 94

2012 Rasa ‘Principia’ Reserve Syrah- This beautiful Syrah was sourced from the Les Collines, and Seven Hills vineyards, weighing in at 15.1% alcohol – but you wouldn’t know it from the mid-palate. It opens with a smoky nose with smoked meats, bacon fat, blackberry, in this expressively aromatic wine.  This is amazing acid structure and has flavors of black olive, blackberry, black cherry and anise. Wonderful terroir and balance. Drink 2015-2025- 95

2013 Rasa QED ‘Axiom of Choice’- This excellent Cab Franc is made from Weinbau vineyard fruit, one of the more famous state sites for the varietal. It opens with lovely aromas of red cherry, crushed flowers, raspberry and dill. There are flavors of red cherry, pomegranate, anise and dill. Delicious and lithe with a wonderful minerality. Only 236 cases made of this delicious wine. Drink 2016-2035- 93

2012 Rasa ‘Plus One’ Cabernet- This is from Kiona vineyard Cabernet from their oldest block. There are aromas of blackberry, cassis, anise, red bell pepper and spice cake. There are flavors of anise, blackberry, black olive and black cherry. This has incredible weight and balance. A compelling effort that head winemaker, Bilo Navarene thinks will age gracefully for 15-20 years. Drink 2015-2035- 94

2012 Rasa ‘Creative Impulse’- This outstanding Bordeaux style red is a heavyhitter. Comprised of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon and 41% Merlot., the wine opens with a complex nose with red bell pepper, cherry pie and dill with sagebrush in this herbaceous and terroir driven nose. There are flavors of red cherry, cherry tomato, raspberry, blackberry and anise. This is a rockstar wine that is balanced, rich and has an incredible mouthfeel. This long ager has 152 cases made so grab some before it sells out. Drink 2015-2035- 96

2012 Rasa ‘In Order to Form A More Perfect Union’-  The grapes in this impressive Bordeaux style blend are sourced from five different vineyards: Echo Ridge, DuBrul, Kiona, Dionysus, and Weinbau. It is comprised of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot. This is a Cab dominant wine that opens with aromas of blackberry, anise, red cherry and dill. There are flavors of blackberry, anise, black cherry and black olive. This has lovely mouthfeel and texture with a strong mineral backbone. Drink 2015-2035- 94

Catena

Catena

One of the most famous houses in Argentina, Catena was founded in the 19th century. The founder, Nicola Catena, traveled Italy to Argentina in 1898, celebrated leaving the famine in Europe for this plentiful new land by eating a piece of virtually raw steak for breakfast each morning. Described as an optimist, he firmly believed that he had found the promised land in Mendoza, where he planted his first Malbec vineyard in 1902. Malbec had been a blending grape in Bordeaux but he saw its potential in Mendoza.

Nicola’s son, Nicolaus, took over the winery in the 1960s but was faced with inflation and political turmoil in Argentina, so he took a job as a visiting economics professor at UC Berkeley. He then came back to Argentina and wanted to focus on the winery, deciding to plant Chardonnay and Malbec at a 5,000 feet elevation. This was an unusual vineyard practice at the time but the risk paid off. Soon Nicolaus was crafting incredible wines from these vines that became blind tasted ahead of epic wine projects like Chateau Latour and Opus One. In 2001 Nicolas' daughter Laura took over the Research & Development program at Bodega Catena Zapata. An Emergency Room physician with degrees from Harvard and Stanford, Laura brought a very strong science background to the family winery's R&D project. She immediately set about working with the high altitude Malbec that her father had planted and has achieved incredible success at the winery since taking over.

I was very impressed with the releases from Catena. Particularly their regular releases and Alta Series (Malbec, Chardonnay and Cabernet) offered a very serious value. I’ve had every vintage release of their Malbec back to 2004 and this recent release, the 2013 Malbec, continues to impress. Their high end releases were exceptional, as I rated all three releases at 95 points. These are special occasion wines that command a 100 plus dollar price. Occasionally the Catena Malbec can be found at Costco. But for the others look for these fantastic wines at specialty northwest wine shops such as Esquin, Wine World or Total Wines or online at http://www.catenawines.com Here are the fantastic new releases from Catena #catena #catenawines

2014 Bodega Catena Zapata Chardonnay-This wine comes from a selection of high mountain vineyards including the La Pirámide vineyard (3117 ft elevation), the Domingo Vineyard (3675 ft elevation) and the Adrianna vineyard (4757 ft). This pale golden hued Chard opens with aromas of butter, cantaloupe and Meyer lemon. There are flavors of ripe honeydew melon, brioche, pear and golden delicious apple. This smooth wine finishes clean. An impressive effort for the price. Drink 2015-2022 -89

2013 Bodega Catena Zapata Alta Chardonnay- This unfined and unfiltered Chard was aged 12-16 months in French oak and was sourced from the Arianna vineyard and the Domingo vineyard. Slightly more golden color than its regular bottling cousin, the 2013 Alta begins with aromas of nutmeg, brioche, mushroom and marzipan. There are flavors of creme brûlée, banana, and golden delicious apple, with a hint of lemon zest, as this is richer more tropical fruit filled than its cousin as well. The texture and viscosity are impressive.  Plenty of stuffing in here for roasted chicken. Drink 2015-2022-92

2013 Bodega Catena Zapata Cabernet-Vines chosen for this wine come from the the La Pirámide vineyard (3117 ft elevation,  theDomingo vineyard (3675 ft elevation), the Altamira in La Consulta vineyard (3593 ft elevation) and the Adrianna vineyard (4757 ft).Aromas of cedar, cassis, anise and black olive. There are flavors of black olive, black cherry, boysenberry, and minerals. This is delicious and lithe, with nice depth and complexity, considering the price point. Drink 2015-2022-90

 2013 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec- This wine utilizes the Angelica vineyard (3018 ft elevation), the La Pirámide vineyard (3117 ft elevation), and the Altamira in La Consulta vineyard (3593 ft elevation). The wine opens with aromas of graphite, crushed spring flowers, and red cherry. There are flavors of milk chocolate, anise, creme de cassis and espresso. Delicious and open wine that’s approachable young. Drink 2015-2020-91

2012 Bodega Catena Zapata 'Alta' Malbec- This wine comes from the Angélica vineyard, (3018 ft elevation), Lot 4 from the La Pirámide vineyard, (3117 ft elevation), Lot 2 from the La Consulta vineyard, (3593 ft elevation), and Lots 3 & 9 from the Adrianna vineyard. This was aged 18 months in French oak prior to bottling.Lovely aromas of blackberry, milk chocolate, black cherry. There are flavors of anise, creme de cassis, Turkish coffee and milk chocolate in this smooth and delicious wine. There is a velvety mouthfeel with nice viscosity. This lithe and delicious wine is hard to resist in its youth. Drink 2015-2029-93

2012 Bodega Catena Zapata 'Alta' Cabernet- Winemaker Alejandro Vigil chose vines for this Cabernet from Lot 3 of the La Pirámide vineyard (3117 ft elevation) and Lot 3 from the Domingo vineyard (3675 ft elevation). The wine opens with aromas of anise, blueberry, blackberry preserves and cedar. There are flavors of dill, red bell pepper, blackberry and a long and lingering finish. This polished effort has wonderful terroir. This is an attractive and novel bottling for the price. This one would pair exceptionally well with a high end juicy burger. Drink 2015-2025-93

 2010 Bodega Catena Zapata 'Argentino' Malbec- The wine is a blend of Catena Zapata’s historic Malbec vineyards, Adrianna and Nicasia. The wine is made from the best grapes from the Catena estate vineyards. This dense colored wine opens with incredibly rich aromas of Turkish coffee, mocha, anise and crushed spring flowers. There are flavors of boysenberry preserves, black cherry, espresso bean and a long and lingering finish. Stinking acidity and wonderful richness on the mouthfeel. This is impressive. Drink 2015-2029-95

 2011 Bodega Catena Zapata 'Nicasia Vineyard' Malbec- The Nicasia vineyard is located in the far southerly growing region of Altamira en La Consulta. The grapes are hand-loaded into 225-500 liter new French oak barrels for a 100% barrel fermentation for a period of 15 days. Winemaker Alejandro Vigil ages the wine in French oak barrels for 18 months, followed by 24 months of aging in bottle before release. This wine opens with aromas of boysenberry, Turkish coffee, cedar and rose petals. This layered and complex wine delivers aromas of anise, creme de cassis, mocha and a wonderfully complex and mineral driven palate. This would pair marvelously with a juicy ribeye steak. Drink 2015-2030-95

2010 Bodega CatenaZapata ‘Nicolaus Catena Zapata’ - This is a wonderful blend of 75% Cabernet with 25% Malbec sourced from La Pirámide, Domingo, Adrianna and Nicasia Vineyards and is named after the winery founder, Dr. Nicolás Catena. The 2010 is a massive wine, yet possesses wonderful elegance. It displays a dark, inky color, followed by aromas reminiscent of dark fruits, black cherries, milk chocolate, graphite and hints of sweet oak. On the palate this is richly textured with nice viscosity, leading to delicious flavors of blueberry, blackberry, graphite and milk chocolate. Overall, this is an outstanding wine from winemaker Alejandro Vigil which shows remarkable aging potential and should continue to evolve gracefully over the next two decades, however it will require a few more years of bottle age before it hits its stride. (Best 2017-2030)- 95

Chimney Rock

Set with a gorgeous backdrop of the mountains, Chimney Rock is a beautiful spot to taste their collection of fine wines. This estate began back in the 1980s when purchased a 180 acre property, complete with a golf course on the east side of the Silverado Trail. Since that time, Chimney Rock has become known for Cabernet, particularly their single vineyard bottlings. I was particularly impressed with the recent releases from the glorious 2012 vintage. Those ’12 releases are going to need some time in the bottle to be fully expressive. Give them a few years for their fruit structure to fully integrate. Some of the older bottlings showed very well, too. The 2009 Chimney Rock Cabernet was in full ripness with great fruit structure that is perfect for current consumption. Look for the range of Chimney Rock wines at Total Wines, as well as Wine World and Esquin in Seattle. Here is the full lineup of expressive Chimney Rock wines that I recently tried at the winery. ‪#‎chimneyrock‬

2012 Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc- Weighing in at 14.2% alcohol, the grapes saw 6 months in Frnech oak (33% new, 33% used) and stainless (33%). This wine has been bottled for more than two years and it is showing beautifully. This is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (57%) and Sauvignon Gris (43%). There are aromas of pear and cut grass, as well as red delicious apple. The palate is smooth and viscous, as the wine offers a silky mouthfeel. There are flavors of ripe pear, star fruit and red delicious with vibrant minerality. Very serious Bordeaux style white wine. Drink 2015-2022. -93

2011 Chimney Rock Merlot-This is a limited release wine that is not typically made. It is current a reticent wine that opens with aromas of red bell pepper, dill and black cherry. Palate has nice richness and has a velvety and smooth mouthfeel but needs a ton of time. There are flavors of red cherry, anise and red bell pepper that persist with a long finish. This mineral driven wine would be a shame to enjoy now, as the fruit hasn’t fully integrated. I anticipate a long life for this one. Drink 2018-2028. -91

2011 Chimney Rock Elevage- This herbaceous style red was bottled in June 2013 and saw 18 months in new French oak prior to bottling. It is comprised of 55% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot. The wine opens with ripe aromas of red bell pepper with nutmeg and red cherry on the perfumed nose. Palate has vibrant minerality that is indicative of this cold vintage red. Red cherry, red bell pepper, green olive and blackberry mark this delicious wine. Needs a ton of time in the bottle to fully integrate, but this will drink nicely in two plus years. Drink 2018-2035. -92

2010 Chimney Rock Elevage- This wine has had more than three years in the bottle. This is a blend of 56% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon 6% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc. Currently more expressive than its ’11 older brother, the wine opens with aromas of crushed rock, cassis and blackberry on the nose. This leads to a rich mouthfeel and viscosity. There are persistent flavors of graphite, creme de cassis and blackberry. Nice depth, indicative of this great vintage. Drink 2016-2030. -92

2006 Chimney Rock Cabernet-This is a library release wine that is showing beautifully at this time. Stewed prune and red cherry on the nose. Palate has milk chocolate, black cherry, blackberry jam and minerals. Striking minerality considering its age. Drink 2015-2020. -92

2009 Chimney Rock Cabernet-This wine was sourced from Stags Leap District fruit and is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot. It saw 18 months in French oak (50% new). This wine opens with a herbaceous nose with red bell pepper and anise. Palate has anise, blackberry and mocha. There are still some moderate tannins, which leads to nice richness and texture. Drink 2017-2028. -92

2009 Chimney Rock Young Vines Cabernet- This expressive wine explodes in the glass with ripe aromas of black cherry, blackberry jam and tar. The palate is viscous and full bodied. This approachable wine has flavors of blackberry, black cherry and creme de cassis. Delicious and hard to resist right now. Drink 2015-2028 -92

2010 Chimney Rock Cabernet- Bottled in July 2012, this saw 18 months in French oak (50% new) and is from Stags Leap District fruit. This wine currently has massive potential. It has a dense nose with prune and blackberry. There are persistent and rich flavors of blackberry, dill, red bell pepper and striking minerality. This impressive effort will cellar well for 20 years. Drink 2018-2030. -93

2011 Chimney Rock Cabernet- This wine is more reticent than its vintage neighbors and is more indicative of the colder vintage. There is a herbaceous nose with green olive, blackberry and dill. Palate has flavors of green olive, anise, creme de cassis with strong minerality. Shut down and needs a ton of time for the fruit to fully integrate. This is a nice effort considering the vintage. Drink 2018-2030. -91

2012 Chimney Rock Cabernet- This masculine wine saw 18 months of French oak (50% new) before being bottled in June 2014. The wine explodes in the glass with nice flavors of blackberry and anise. This has a wonderful velvety texture, similar to the ’10 Cabernet. There are rich flavors of blackberry, creme de cassis and black olive. While the fruit is still somewhat shut down, there is a ton of potential with this one for the patient wine drinker. Drink 2020-2035 -93

2011 Chimney Rock ‘Ganymede Vineyard’ Cabernet- This is an exceptional effort from a cold vintage, as these guys have nailed this one. The wine begins with an herbal nose with red bell pepper, blackberry and red currant. Nice silky texture with vibrant mineral backbone. Palate has blackberry, black tea, black olive and mocha flavors. Don't touch until 2018. Drink 2018-2035. -92

2012 Chimney Rock ‘Arrowhead Vineyard’ Cabernet- This rich wine opens with aromas of cassis, blackberry and milk chocolate. There is a dense and lovely mouthfeel on the palate. Flavors of black tea, creme de cassis and blackberry preserves with mouth-watering acidity. Rich and dense wine that will need time. Drink 2018-2035. -93

Chateau Montelena

Originally founded in 1888 and named A.L. Tubbs winery after its founder Alfred Tubbs, the winery was initially intended as a barrel-aging facility. Fast forward to the '70s, in 1976 the Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was judged against four white Burgundy wines. The 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay won the Judgement of Paris, being voted the top wine of the tasting. This landmark achievement was shocking at the time, as French wines were typically viewed as considerably superior to California wines. The winemaking team currently uses sustainable and organic farming methods to promote the health of the soil and ultimately preserve the land's productivity. For example, instead of using chemical pesticides for pest control, they grow cover crops and release ladybugs into the vineyard to keep the pests at bay. Head winemaker, Matt Crafton Matt joined Chateau Montelena in 2008 as Assistant Winemaker after graduating from UC Davis and serving as an intern at Etude Wines. In 2014 he promoted to head winemaker in 2014.
The two new releases from Chateau Montelena, the 2012 Chardonnay and 2012 Cabernet come from a near perfect vintage in Napa. The Chard was balanced and lively, done in the Napa style, while the Cabernet was delicious and ripe right out of the bottle, unlike some other ’12 Napa Cabs that need more time to develop. I was impressed with both efforts that keep up the fine tradition of Montelena winemaking. Look for these great wines at Northwest wine shops such as Esquin, Met Market and Total Wines, or online at http://montelena.com Here are the great new releases from Chateau Montelena ‪#‎chateaumontelena‬

2012 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay- The 2012 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay opens with lively aromas reminiscent of lemon zest, brioche and white peach. This possesses a wonderful mineral driven core, leading to flavors of Meyer lemon, banana, vanilla cream, Gravenstein apple and Bartlett pear which cascade through the wine. This is a beautifully layered and complex Chard, with a lasting finish. Winemaker Matt Crafton aged this wine 10 months in French oak (10% new). (Drink 2015-2022) $40.00

2012 Chateau Montelena- The 2012 Montelena Cabernet is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. The wine was aged 14 months in French & Eastern European Oak (16% new). It opens with aromas of red bell pepper, dill, blackberry and milk chocolate. This leads to flavors of blackberry, black cherry, black olive and cloves. Lovely mouthfeel and mineral backbone. Done in the open style, this is approachable right now and is delicious right out of the bottle. (Drink 2015-2025) $45.00

Interview with Megan Overman, Sommelier at Chandler's Crabhouse

As part of Washington Wine Blog’s Somm Focus, we have selected another impressive young sommelier, this time from Chandler’s Crabhouse restaurant in Seattle. Megan Overman has a background in French wines and previously worked as an artist and a clothing designer. She found her passion in wine education and has been working as a somm at Chandler’s Crabhouse, slowly building their wine program. I am particularly impressed how the wine program has improved at Chandler’s in the past 5 or so years. The list continues to evolve to include many northwest favorites, but also has some expressive international and domestic selections as well – all for a pretty reasonable price. Here is Megan Overman’s wonderful and candid interview with us:
WWB: Can you talk about your background in wine? How did you decide to become a Somm?

MO: I grew up around wine. I was raised catholic and half of my family still lives in France. We visit each other at least once a year and food and wine are always a huge part, if not the biggest. Seeing people come together over a meal is my favorite part of my job. I believe there is truly a bond around breaking bread and that you will never learn or understand wine if you don't love the people you are sharing that with.
When I was younger it never occurred to me that this could be a career. My first career was is in design. In my 20's I enjoyed the life of a starving artist. I had a clothing label and an art gallery. I eventually found myself back in the restaurant industry. Within months I overheard other servers talk about this career as a Somm. A career drinking wine? I can do that. So I went through the International Sommelier Program and have been moving forward ever since. I have traveled France's wine regions twice now and worked in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Schwartz Brothers is the second position I have held as a Sommelière as well as the second wine program I have played a fundamental role in. I have no desire to be a wine maker as many somms do. I love the restaurant side of it- pairing food and wine, teaching staff and promoting local industry.

WWB: What are some of your favorite northwest wines and producers?

MO: I love old world wine. Specifically French and more specifically Provence wine. Ask any French or Italian person what their favorite wine is and it will always be where they are from. It is important to understand this because I believe whole heartedly in the promotion of Washington wine. I am from here and Washington makes amazing wine. But more than amazing, there is a soul to it. Bob Betz once said that Washington has this perfect balance between new world and old world. I agree and love finding wines here in Washington that uniquely show character while having depth and remaining true to varietal.
My first experience was with Pomum Cellars. I have known this winery since the beginning of my career. Javier Alfonso is an amazing winemaker. His wines are extremely complex, earthy and elegant. His Shya Bordeaux blend is one of my favorites to put down on a table for diners looking for a great example of a Washington cab or blend. I also believe that he makes the best Riesling this state if not the country has to offer.
Then I met Morgan Lee. He is the wine maker for Two Vintners winery. What I enjoy so much about Morgan is that he just does it. He is known for his Syrahs but he also makes a Grenache Blanc- which is my favorite lunchtime wine. He makes a Zinfandel FROM WASHINGTON! Two Vintners makes O.G. (look it up, it is a must for any wine geek) as well as the loveliest Cab in my opinion- Legit Cab, which is seriously LEGIT.
Structure Cellar's wines may make me feel the most at home perhaps because Brian and Brandee are so awesome, maybe because I work with Brian Grasso here at Chandler's but it is really because I find so much depth in their wines from them allowing the varietals to truly express themselves. The Newell is a blend of Syrah and Cab Franc and if my eyes were closed I would guess it as a Provence red. Their Newell, Piloti Cab Franc and Blueprint White blend are our "Featured Wines" currently at Chandler's Crabhouse.
During my time on the floor as a Somm at Daniel's (also a Schwartz Brothers Restaurant) I really got to know Steven's Winery and it's been added to my list of favorites. Their wines all have this sexy edge to me. The Timey Malbec is a beast and hands down the best expression of Malbec I have seen from this state.
All of these wines are created to be food friendly. Every winery has their unique style which comes through in each wine. As a Somm, this tells me the winemaking is deliberate and methodical, this is important. They are accessible wines and all from small wineries. And proudly, they are all or have at one time been on Chandler's glass pour list.

WWB: You mentioned that you are currently building the Somm program for Schwartz Brothers restaurants. Can you explain what the program is like and how you are building the program, as well as some of the challenges that you have faced with building the program?

MO: I have been working with Chandler's wine program for a few years now. Last year we added 150 wines to our already good wine list awarding us with the Wine Spectator "Best of Award of Excellence". Our now excellent wine list calls for a Somm program. And our wine team- ALL WOMEN. From the Wine Director for all Schwartz Brothers Restaurants- Victoria Antilla, the Wine Manager for Chandler's Crabhouse- Alexandra Stapleton, to myself and Jeanette Zauner, our up and coming Somm. All encouraged and possible by the mentoring and support of our General Manager Robert Onstad. While we are all smart, strong, bad ass women, we are also nurturing creatures. I think this allows a program to really flourish with the guests dining experience being put first. As opposed to needing to have a wine on a list because it's allocated or had X amount of points or so and so said it was the best wine since sliced bread. Those are all opinions and while it's important to know that information like stats on a card, what's really important is to have foresight as to how something is going to play out in specific situations. Women are just more intuitive that way.

WWB: Do you have any specific future goals in the wine industry?

MO: I love to travel and another great thing about wine are all the amazing places in the world it is grown, so I will always have a goal to travel.
I am currently going through the Court of Masters and after a Master in French Wine through the French Wine Society.

WWB: What are some of your favorite wine pairings with the food from Chandlers such as the signature crab cakes, oysters, and the Whiskey Crab Soup?

MO: How about Charred Octopus and Geoduck Crudo?! A year and a half ago Chandler's acquired chef Thomas Cullen and between him and Robert this restaurant is unstoppable. We've taken the responsibility to our environment to heart and are one of the first 25 restaurants in the Seattle area to become a Smart-Catch restaurant. Not only will you find the area's most iconic food here but you can dine knowing it is sustainable. I don't believe in the fish- white, steak- red rules. EAT AND DRINK LOCAL. It really works. Imposing this philosophy allows guests to take some credit by building off what they already know and like. I do definitely have some favorite pairings though.
I love the Structure Cellars Blueprint White with our spicy Cioppino. It's a meaty white wine, that has minerality and citrus to compliment seafood and herbs, and the acidity is nicely balanced so the spice isn't offset. If you don't like white wine, Pomum Cellars Tempranillo will compliment the smokey flavors and bring this hearty meal full circle.
Chandler's World's Best Crab Cake is a really fun one to pair because the sides change. Right now there is a black truffle aioli that is fantastic with the Gramercy Cellars The Deuce Syrah. There is a funk and earthiness to this wine that lends itself to making the truffles even tastier- if that was possible.
Mark Ryan's Viognier is beautiful and a perfect pairing with the Geoduck Crudo. Delicate tropical fruit and slight floral notes play off the yuzu soy and shaved fresno chilis and jalapeno.
For me, wine isn't just about matching the protein on the plate. Everything should be complimented. I tend to look more at sides when pairing, the time of day, the company.... it's an overall experience.

DeLille Cellars

DeLille is a historic Washington winery that has achieved considerable praise worldwide. I don’t think there is a Washington white wine that impresses me more each year than their Chaleur Estate Blanc. DeLille crafts essentially the best Bordeaux Blanc in the state. This new, 2014, rendition is up there with the best Chaleur Estate Blancs that I’ve had, including the excellent 2008 vintage.
There are other bottlings that were particularly impressive on my last visit to DeLille. Their Doyenne Rose is one of the best Washington Roses that I’ve had this year. It brings wonderful watermelon and cran-cherry flavors that are perfect for a hot summer day. Their 2012 Bordeaux style reds also were hugely impressive. Both the Chaleur Estate Red and the Four Flags Cabernet weighed in at a whopping 95 and 94 points respectively, as they represent some of the highest rated Reds I’ve tried from Washington this year. They will both require at least two more years in the cellar to fully develop. Here are the fantastic new releases, as well as a couple of library wines that I have recently tried from DeLille Cellars. Check out their wines at great Northwest wine shops such as Esquin and Met Market, as well as online at delillecellars.com ‪#‎delillecellars‬

2014 DeLille Rousanne- 100% Rousanne wine that was aged in small percentage in neutral oak but is primarily a stainless wine. Rich perfumed nose with cantaloupe, cut grass and ripe pear. Rich almost oily mouthfeel yields Flavors of honeydew, hazelnuts, pear and green apple. Drinking nicely as of 2015 as this is every bit outstanding and the best Washington expression of the varietal that I’ve had. Drink 2015-2018. -93

2014 DeLille Chaleur Estate Blanc- Year after year this is one of the best, if not the best, Bordeaux style White out of Washingon state. Composed of 75% Sav Blanc and 25% Semillon. The wine was aged in oak, 70% new for 5-6 months. Beautiful nose of starfruit, lemon rind and baked apple. Rich mouthfeel with vanilla, pear, red delicious apple, starfruit and a 30 second long finish. This is very bit outstanding and up there with the 2008 Chaleur Estate Blanc as the best Chaleur Estate Blancs I’ve ever tried. Drink 2015-2022. -95

2014 Doyenne Rose-This is their Grenache dominant Rose and is a limited case production wine. Nose has watermelon, pear, and strawberry. Flavors of cran-cherry, watermelon and vanilla. Drink now, this wine is simply delicious. -92

2013 Doyenne Metier Rouge- This wine is a blend of Mouvedre, Grenache and Syrah. It is crack and pour wine that is just delicious and open out of the bottle. Perfumed nose of rose petals, red cherry and Christmas spice. Palate has red cherry, cran-raspberry, and is fruit driven. Nice mouthfeel with good density. Tasty now, as this doesn’t make sense to cellar this one. Drink 2015-2019. -90

2012 DeLille Chaleur Estate Rouge- This is made from roughly 75% Ciel du Cheval fruit and is a 67% Cabernet wine with the rest Merlot and Cab Franc. The wine has a ripe and open nose with red cherry and red currant with oak. Palate has ripe layers of red cherry, cherry tomato, blackberry and anise. This is incredible juice now but can benefit from 2-5 years of cellaring. This is the best Chaleur Estate Rouge I’ve had. Drink 2017-2030. -95

2012 DeLille Four Flags Cabernet- This follows up their impressive bottling from a colder vintage, 2011. The wine opens with aromas of anise and blackberry with oak on the nose. Rich layers of anise, blackberry and black cherry on the mid-palate. Dark and deep, this wine is compelling and delicious. There is a vibrant mouthfeel that tells me this will be a long-ager. The wine has moderate tannins that persist and will take time to dissipate. Drink 2017-2030- 94

2009 DeLille Doyenne Signature Syrah- This is made from 97.5% Syrah and 2.5% Viognier. With 66% of the Syrah from Grand Ciel, and 31.5% Syrah from Boushey Vineyard
and 2.5% of the wine from Ciel du Cheval Viognier. The nose has anise, smoked meats and black pepper aromas. This wine is richer and more viscous than its 2008 counterpart. The wine brings flavors of blackberry jam, black cherry and black olive with smoked meats. Complex and delicious, as this wine is drinking at its peak. Drink 2015-2017 -93

2008 DeLille Doyenne Signature Syrah- This Syrah contains 2% Viognier, with 30% of the fruit from the famed Boushey Vineyard in Yakima Valley. The wine opens with aromas of oak, cassis and smoked meats. Velvety mouthfeel with nice richness and viscosity. Currently this wine showing ever so slightly past its prime, as the acid structure is slowly dwindling, giving way to flavors of blackberry, black cherry and black olive. Drink 2015-2016. -92

Northstar Winery

It is not everyday that a winery makes a name for itself by producing Merlot. But this is essentially what Northstar has done, despite the Sideways effect – where Sideways lead protagonist Linus loudly proclaims that he is not going to drink any #%$)%* Merlot. Since the movie, Merlot sales immediately plummeted, but sales have improved in recent years.
Northstar was first founded in 1994 at a time when Merlot was the dominant grape in Washington. Current head winemaker since 2005, David “Merf” Merfeld, has been crafting some elegant and rich Merlots. I am impressed with how he approached the colder 2011 vintage. His ‘Premier’ Merlot from 2011 is the highest rated Washington Merlot I’ve rated from that vintage and currently is showing some beautiful balance and black fruit flavors. The new regular release bottling, the 2011 ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot, showcases this colder vintage with a nice dark fruit flavor profile, alongside elegance and balance. Look for Northstar wines at www.northstarwinery.com You can also find their wines at great Northwest wine shops such as Esquin, Met Market and Total Wines. Here are the new releases from Northstar ‪#‎northstarwinery‬

2011 Northstar 'Premier' Columbia Valley Merlot- This colder vintage Merlot needs a one hour decant to open up. In the glass there are aromas of milk chocolate, roasted figs, stewed prune and anise. Lovely minerallity and rich mouthfeel that is very right bank Bordelaise. There are flavors of black cherry, black olive, mocha and cassis. This delicious and dense effort begs for another sip as its of the best Merlots from this vintage. Drink 2015-2028. -93

2012 Northstar Columbia Valley Cabernet-This deep purpled color Cab improves with an hour aeration. There are aromas of cassis, anise, oak and coffee. Lovely mouthfeel and done in the forward style. There are flavors of anise, blackberry, black cherry and a long finish that lingers. This would make a great glass pour at a fine steakhouse. Drink with a juicy ribeye. Drink 2015-2022. -91

2011 Northstar Columbia Valley Merlot-Like its Premier cuvée older brother, this wine needs more than an hour in the decanter to open up. Once aroused it takes on aromas reminiscent of oak, red cherry, sage and dill in this herbaceous nose. The palate is lithe, with vibrant acidity. Flavors of black cherry, vanilla, raspberry and mocha lead to a long finish. This is a tremendous effort considering the coldness of the vintage. Drink 2015-2022. -91

Leonetti Cellar

As the first winery in Walla Walla, founded in 1977, Leonetti Cellar has made a name for itself over the years for its expressive and rich Merlots and Cabernets. The winery is located in a beautiful part of Walla Walla, outside of town. From what began with a small amount of land, over time the Leonetti family has purchased a large parcel of land east of town and the estate is scenic and spacious. Amy Figgins, the daughter of Leonetti’s founder, Gary Figgins, graciously served as our tour guide.

Amy showed us the first small beginnings of their winery. It was a very humble looking building, roughly 300 sq. feet. Things changed with the incredible success that the Figgins family created. The production center now is not only a colossus but is an architectural marvel, up there with the best production and barrel rooms in Napa. It was very exciting to see that Chris Figgins is now experimenting with relatively obscure varietals, such as Aglianico, but is also ageing certain varietals in clay pots. The tour ends with a tasting of both the recent releases of Merlot and Cabernet. The 2013 Merlot is an exquisite effort, up there with the best Merlot ever produced in this estate. This warm vintage wine was the highest rated Merlot that I’ve had this year. The wine is seamless, rich and delicious. It is so great out of the bottle that it would be hard to cellar. After the Merlot I sampled the 2012 Cabernet. This wine was a massive and epic Cabernet, up there with the best Cabernet in the state. The flavors and balance were exquisite. Leonetti is a wine club only winery but you can find their wines at great wine shops like Esquin. Here are some of the fantastic new releases from Leonetti. Learn more about their story at leonetticellar.com #leonetticellar

2013 Leonetti Cellar Merlot- This wine comes from Loess vineyard, Mill Creek vineyard, Upland vineyard as well as Leonetti Old Block. This is a blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, with a higher percentage of Cab Franc than I have ever seen being used for this blend, as Cab Franc was most recently used in this blend from 2001-2003 and then in 2009. The wine saw 15 months in new and once filled French oak. The nose begins with aromas of black cherry, prune, cassis, and dill with lightly herbaceous aromatics. The palate has silky texture and wonderful weight. There are flavors of blackberry, red cherry, dill and black plum in this tremendous effort. This serious juice is hard to resist now. Drink 2015-2030-95

2012 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet- This is an intense blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot comes from the Seven Hills vineyard, the Loess vineyard, Mill Creek vineyard, Upland vineyard and Leonetti Old Block. It saw 22 months in new and once used French oak barrels. The winemaker says this wine reminds him of the 2008 Cabernet. In the glass the wine explodes with ripe flavors of Turkish coffee, cassis, black olive and black cherry. There are flavors of anise, crème de cassis, blackberry and moderate tannin structure. The richness and mouthfeel is there. This seamless wine glides on with a long finish. This is a memorable wine. Drink 2015-2035-95

2012 Leonetti Cellars Sangiovese- This wine came from the Seven Hills, Mill Creek, Upland and
Serra Pedace vineyards. It is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 12% Syrah, 8% Aglianico, as this is the first vintage that they have opted for their estate Aglianico. The wine opens with a ripe nose of red currant, red cherry, black pepper and oak. There is a silky and viscous mouthfeel that leads to flavors of red cherry, anise, cranberry with medium tannins. One of the best, if not the best, Washington Sangios out there. Needs another year in the bottle to fully develop, drink in 2016. Drink 2016-2025.- 93

K Vintners and Sixto

Charles Smith is one of the biggest players in Washington wine. This larger than life man has received incredible acclaim for his wines over the years and he has amassed brands such as K Vinters, Sixto, Secco, as well as his famous Charles Smith label wines. While he has traditionally been based in Walla Walla, he is a city man at heart and created an amazing place to taste his wines in south Seattle in the Georgetown district.
Charles Smith has created some of the highest rated Syrahs in North America. His highly rated ‘Royal City’ Syrah has been hailed as one of the best Syrahs out there by critics and somms. His K Vintners label produces a range of impressive bottlings. I was particularly impressed with what he did in both 2012 and 2013, exceptional and ripe vintages. Look for his 2013 K Vintners ‘The Boy’ that impresses with its pretty red fruit flavors. The range of fruit, structure and elegance to the wines were up there with the best in the state. The Syrah releases from K impressed mightily. Sadly, some of their finest wines, such as the Charles Smith ‘Royal City’ Syrah and the K ‘Rockgarden’ Syrah were not available for tasting, as they mentioned that they were only for wine club members or had sold out.
His Sixto bottling impressed as he has chosen three different vineyard sites in Columbia Valley to showcase Chardonnay. These were rich and full bodied Chardonnays with some ageing potential. I was particularly impressed with the 2012 Sixto ‘Rosa Hills’ Chardonnay, which had a rich and buttery fruit flavor profile with crème brulee and ripe pear. Look for K Vintners, Sixto and Charles Smith wines at Metropolitan Market, Esquin, Costco and other great Northwest wine shops or www.charlessmithwines.com ‪#‎charlessmith‬

2014 K Vintners ‘Art Den Hoed Vineyard’ Viognier- This is from the Yakima Valley and spent 6 months ageing on lees with no malolactic fermentation. The vineyard sits at 1300 feet and the wine is sourced from vineyard blocks ranging from 8-14 years old. Aromatics of honeysuckle, pear, red delicious and butter. Bright mouthfeel with a strong acid backbone. Lemon zest, pear, red delicious apple and stardust with a lovely cream finish. Drink 2015-2020. -92

2013 K Vintners ‘The Boy’ Grenache- This wine was sourced from Walla Walla Valley fruit (Northridge and River Rock vineyards) and they utilized 12% Syrah into the blend. This warm vintage wine stands in at 14.5% alcohol, as this wine was Charles Smith’s first non-Syrah wine that he made. Lovely aromatics with aromas of dill, gravel, orange peel, raspberry and red cherry. The mouthfeel is smooth as this seamlessly glides along. There are flavors of red cherry, Mandarin orange, gravel and raspberry. This is novel, terroir driven and simply delicious. Drink 2015-2028. -94

2012 K Vintners 'Guido' Sangiovese- The Sangio is sourced from Jack’s vineyard in the rocky soils of the Walla Walla Valley. This has aromatics of red cherry, smoke and stewed prune. There are flavors of red cherry, dill, strawberry, mushroom, wet stone and rhubarb. This is delicious wine that does not need more time and is a crack and pour. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2012 K Vintners 'The Deal' Syrah- This is made from Wahluke Slope fruit. This has a dark fruit profile on the nose with blackberry, cassis and smoke. There are flavors of blackberry, blueberry compote, smoked meats, and white pepper. This has a great acid backbone with nice depth and concentration. This generous wine is great right out of the bottle. Drink 2015-2025. -93

2012 K Vinters ‘The Creator’- This is a blend of 70% Cabernet with 30% Syrah from the River Rock and Jack’s Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. Jack’s Vineyard was planted in 1999, relatively ancient for Walla Walla. This wine opens with aromas of red cherry, blackberry, tar, and dill. There are flavors of black cherry, black olive, blackberry with a lovely acid backbone. This has a long life with a lovely minerality. Drink in wither year. Drink 2016-2030. -94

2012 K Vintners ‘Northridge Vineyard’ Merlot- This Wahluke Slope Merlot comes from the Northridge Vineyard, owned by the Milbrandts. It weighs in at 14.5% alcohol and saw 60% new French oak treatment. The wine opens with aromas of red cherry, raspberry and dill. There are lovely flavors of red cherry, dill, raspberry and blueberry. This fruit driven wine delivers. There is a lovely smoothness and texture to this wine. Drink 2015-2025. -93

2012 Charles Smith ‘Broncho’ Malbec- This wine comes from Stoneridge vineyard, located in the northeast corner of Wahluke Slope AVA. This is a warm growing site with a ton of wind. The wine has a dark and inky color. There are rich aromatics of milk chocolate, blackberry, dried sagebrush and and prune. There are flavors of black cherry, black olive, blackberry cobbler and sage. This is dense and delicious. Drink 2015-2025. -92

2012 K Vintners 'Morrison Lane' Syrah- The Morrison Lane vineyard is the oldest vineyard site for Syrah in Walla Walla and was planted in 1994 -- well before most other wineries set foot in Wallyworld. The soil is coarse sand and gravel. The wine opens with dill pickle and blackberry with black pepper and smoked meats on the nose. The mouthfeel is rich and balanced with a lovely acid structure. There are flavors of anise, spice box, blackberry and anise. This delicious wine is open and polished. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2012 Sixto ‘Uncovered’ Chardonnay- This Chardonnay is blended with fruit from Roza Hills, Frenchman Hills and Moxee vineyards. Deep golden hue. Lovely aromatics with pear, golden delicious apple, nutmeg and oak. Rich mouthfeel with a smooth texture and viscosity. Flavors reminiscent of golden delicious apple, pear, butter and a lovely long finish. This is a rock solid bottling. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2012 Sixto ‘Rosa Hills’ Chardonnay- The Rosa Hills vineyard stands at 1350 feet and is a southern sloping bowl that sits on the southern slope of Rattlesnake Hills. There are aromas of brioche, lemon zest and pear. There is nice richness on the mouthfeel with flavors of creme brûlée, pear, golden delicious and a long, lingering finish that lasts for half a minute. This is an impressive bottling. Drink 2015-2025. -94

2012 Sixto ‘Moxee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This wine comes from nearly 40 year old vines that are under some limestone and silt loam. This wine opens with aromatics of pear, green apple and slightly subdued in the nose. There are flavors of pear, red delicious apple and cream alongside a smooth and velvety mouthfeel. This has a lovely texture and slightly less citrus components than its Frenchman Hills counterpart. Drink 2015-2022. -93

2012 Sixto ‘Frenchman Hills’ Chardonnay- This vineyard is perched at over 1600 feet and is a cool site compared to most in the Wahluke Slope. This vineyard, planted in 1998, has a limestone and basalt base. This is fermented in concrete and aged in French oak. Aromatics of oak, pineapple, golden delicious and lemon zest. There are flavors of peach pit, golden delicious apple, pear and lemon rind. Delicious cream finish. Drink 2015-2023-93

Tenet Wines

Philippe Cambrie grew up studying wine. Having a background in microbiology, Cambrie completed a masters in oenology from the University of Montpelier in 1986. More recently he has gained prominence with his consulting for Rhone wineries such as Domaine Grand Tinel, Bosquet des Papes, Jean Royer and many others. His countryman, Michael Gassier, grew up helping manage his family vineyard in Southern France. Gassier also has a masters in engineering but has been making critically acclaimed wines in the Cotes du Nimes for many years. Tenet wines is a project that combines the eminent Rhone winemaker Michael Gassier with the consulting knowledge of Cambrie and Chateau St. Michelle head winemaker Bob Berthau. These three superstar winemakers have combined to make three wines, Le Fervent (made by Gassier), the Pundit (made by all 3) and the Tenet (made by all 3).

These wines were serious. I was particularly impressed with the value in Le Fervent and The Pundit bottlings, as these wines retail at $25.00. There was lovely terroir and aromatics on Le Fervent bottling, showing a wonderful mineral streak and a saline streak from the Mediterranean climate. The Pundit also impressed with nice richness and depth for the price. The Tenet was a huge and masculine style Syrah that will need another year in the bottle for everything to amalgamate beautifully. Check out these wines at Northwest wine shops such as Met Market, Esquin and Total Wines, as well as tenetwines.com #tenetwines

2013 Tenet ‘Le Fervent’-This wine is a blend of 91% Syrah, 6% Grenache, 2% Mourvèdre, 3% Viognier. Aged 12 months in concrete (67%) and neutral oak (33%) before bottling in January 2015. Michael Gassier has selected Syrah north facing sites in the Cotes du Nimes that impart a strong mineral content. The wine opens with aromas of smoked meats, provencale herbs and beef blood with wet gravel. There are flavors of raspberry, cran-cherry, cooked figs and orange rind. This is complex and delicious with nice richness and a strong mineral streak. Drink 2015-2022. -92 $25.00

 2013 Tenet ‘The Pundit’-The wine is made from 94% Syrah, 3% Grenache, 2% Mourvèdre, 1% Viognier that’s cofermented with Viognier. The wine was aged 12 months in 61% neutral oak with 23% new French oak and 16% new American oak. The resultant Columbia Valley Syrah has an super dark color. There are lovely aromatics of smoked meats, tar, black olive and black cherry. Flavors of blackberry, cloves, black olive and smoked meats. Lovely smooth finish as this one glides. This open and polished dense wine is one to pair with a juicy ribeye and is strikingly familiar to the Ethos style of Syrah. Drink 2015-2022. -92 $25.00

 2013 Tenet ‘Tenet’- This wine is made from 40% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 25% Mouvedre, this saw 12 months in neutral oak and was bottled in December 2014. This wine is currently slightly more subdued on the nose than the other two wines,  having aromas of blackberry, smoked meats, and cedar. There are flavors of milk chocolate, blackberry jam, tar, and black cherry. This open wine is polished and smooth, with almost a Merlot-like character. Give this dense effort from a hot vintage one more year in the bottle to develop. Drink 2016-20256. -93 $75.00

Darioush

Northern Iran is one of the birthplaces of wine, as records from 5,000 B.C. indicate a nomad culture living there and celebrating wine. Darioush Khaledi was instilled at an early age with the winemaking craft of his father and began collecting fine wine at a young age. He migrated to the United States and owned what was once the largest family-owned grocery store business in California. His passion for wine met its apex in 1997 when he formed Darioush winery.
The tasting experience at Darioush is none other. The palatial tasting room at Darioush is the most opulent setting for wine tasting I’ve seen. There are beautiful carvings throughout the winery and high end details that you need to see for yourself to believe. I can’t imagine how much the bar we sat at must have cost. And that was just the bar. Darioush holds a special tasting of the proprietor’s personal wine collection at the winery for $300.00 but we were there to take in the breathtaking atmosphere and sample the new releases.
The wine has received great critical acclaim over the years. Their 2008 Cabernet Franc (95 WWB) might be the best Napa Cab Franc I’ve ever tried. These new releases were very serious as well. I was blown away with the power, balance and flavor profiles obtained in their 2012 Merlot. This is one to pick up for the cellar or for a special occasion. Their 2012 Cabernet was impressive as well, although a bit shut down for the moment, as was their 2012 Cabernet Franc. Darioush makes some exceptional white wines as well, as their 2013 Chardonnay and 2014 Viognier impressed. Look for these wines at specialty northwest wine shops like Met Market and Esquin. You can also find them at darioush.com. Here are some of the fantastic new releases that I recently sampled at Darioush. ‪#‎darioush‬

2013 Darioush Duel White- This is a blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Viognier. It has fragrant aromas of pear, red delicious apple and grapefruit. There is a striking minerality to the wine and lush mouthfeel. Flavors of pear, lychee and green apple lead to a clean finish. Drink 2015-2019. -91

2014 Darioush Viognier- This wine comes from vineyards in Napa Valley and Oak Knoll. It saw 85% neutral French oak, as well as 10% stainless steel barrels. The wine opens nicely in the glass with aromas of honeysuckle, pear and star jasmine. This leads to flavors of cantaloupe, white peach and pear. Nice balance and richness, as this feels fat on the mouth and has a lingering finish. Drink 2015-2020. -93

2013 Darioush Chardonnay- This wine is made from 70 percent new oak and 100 percent malolactic fermentation. The fruit is sourced from vineyards in Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder, Oak Knoll and Los Carneros. Darioush has gained a strong reputation for Chardonnay over the years. This new release is no exception and has the balance and richness of the best in Napa. It offers lovely nose of golden delicious apples, butter and pear, while bringing lively acidity to the mouth. This is balanced and not overdone in the classic Napa style. Flavors of red delicious apple and starfruit add to the bright finish. Hard to resist now. (Best 2015-2022)- 92

2012 Darioush Merlot- Combining 5% Cab and 5% Cab Franc, this wine has cherry tomato, dill and red cherry on the perfumed nose. Flavors of black cherry, anise, and blackberry jam on the opulent palate. The dense mouthfeel leads to a long and lingering finish. Incredible wine, this is the best Napa Merlot I’ve sampled this year. Drink 2015-2030. -95

2012 Darioush Shiraz-This impressive effort was aged 18 months in new Siruge, Damy and François Frères French oak barrels. The dark and inky colored wine opens with aromas of smoked meats, milk chocolate and blackberry. There is a lush mouthfeel with a nice mineral backbone. There are flavors of black tea, black cherry, and smoked meats. Layered and delicious wine that is drinking beautifully now. Drink 2015-2025. -93

2012 Darioush Cabernet- This is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec. Aged 22 months in 85% new Chateau Traditional French oak barrels, the wine comes from estate fruit from Mt. Veeder, Oak Knoll, Napa Valley. There are lovely aromas of red bell pepper, anise and blackberry. Nice richness and viscosity on the mid-palate with a strong mineral backbone. Palate has blackberry, anise, mocha, and graphite with moderate tannins. Layered and rich wine that needs time in the bottle to settle and for the fruit to amalgamate. Drink 2017-2030. -93

2011 Darioush Cabernet- This cold vintage Cabernet is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec. This saw 22 months in French oak barrels and like its 2012 version, it is 100% estate fruit. There are aromas reminiscent of blackberry, black cherry and anise. The palate is acidic, with moderate tannins and needs time for the fruit to integrate. Currently showcasing flavors of blackberry, creme de cassis and black cherry. This has great richness considering the vintage. Drink 2017-2028. -91

2012 Darioush Cabernet Franc- This is 90% Cab Franc with 5% Merlot and 5% Cabernet blended in. The nose is herbal, having dried herbs and red bell pepper with red cherry. The palate has nice viscosity and is extremely shut down, as this will need some time. There are flavors predominant of anise, red cherry and blackberry. This is a dense and masculine style Cab Franc. Drink 2017-2030. -93

2012 Capataz- Darioush makes a Malbec that's sourced from sourced from three vineyard estates in Lunlunta, Agrelo and Tupungato, ranging from 14 to over 70 years vine age. The wine opens with aromas of prune, red cherry and cherry tomato. The palate has flavors of cherry tomato, blackberry, and mocha. This is a dense and mineral driven wine. Drink 2015-2025. -92

Dutton-Goldfield Winery

The Dutton Ranch has always been one of the most famous Sonoma sources for Chardonnay. This is the rich and buttery style of Chardonnay that Sonoma has made famous. In 1998 colleagues Steve Dutton and Dan Goldfield decided to start a winery together. Steve Dutton is a 5th generation farmer while Dan has a background in chemistry and later completed the illustrious UC Davis program in winemaking. He had stints at Robert Mondavi and even made wine in Portugal for two years before coming back to California and taking on this project.
I’ve enjoyed Dutton-Golfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnays many years. They appeal with their rich and buttery texture as Dutton Ranch sources from some of the choicest fruit out of Sonoma.

The new releases at Dutton-Goldfield impressed. I was particularly impressed with their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay offerings. Their 2013 ‘Azaya Ranch' Vineyard Pinot Noir was an earthy offering that had great ripe fruit. Their 2013 ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnay also impressed with the rich and buttery profile. Many of these wines are not distributed to the Northwest, so you might have to buy them on the Dutton-Goldfield website (http://www.duttongoldfield.com). Some of these wines can be found at Total Wines as well as some specialty Northwest wine shops. Here are the new releases from Dutton-Golfield:

2013 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Chileno Vineyard’ Riesling- The fruit is sourced from a vineyard in windswept northwest Marin. This Kabinette style dry Riesling was fermented in stainless steel and has aromas of has jasmine, pear and red delicious. There is a nice bright acidity which leads to flavors of pear, lychee and gooseberry. This is definitely bone dry. Drink 2015-2020. -88 $25.00

2013 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Green Valley’ Vineyard Gewurtztraminer- This was planted in a cold nook in the Green Valley, as this is one of the only Sonoma County sites for Gewurtz. The vineyard is located roughly 3 miles out from the winery. This was fermented in stainless tanks before being bottled for six months prior to being released. The wine has a floral nose with rose petals and cut grass alongside lychee. There is nice and bright acidity to this wine, leading to flavors of cantaloupe, pears and lychee. Lovely texture and minerality. Drink 2015-2020 -90 $25.00

2013 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Pinot Noir-. From the esteemed Dutton Ranch vineyard, the fruit was hand sorted prior to fermentation. This spent 10 months in French oak (40% new) before bottling. The wine opens with a bouquet of cran-raspberry, nutmeg and red cherry with a lovely spice character. Nice minerality and richness on the mouthfeel. On the mid-palate there is cherry tomato, red cherry, raspberry and vibrant mineality. The acid backbone is suggestive of a long-ageing wine. Drink 2015-2028. -91 $40.00

2013 Dutton-Goldfield 'Angel Camp' Vineyard Pinot Noir- This wine comes from the Angel Camp vineyard located in Philo in the Anderson Valley. This saw 11 months in French oak (50% new) and was bottled in August 2014. The nose has Christmas spice, red cherry and dill. Palate has cran-cherry, and raspberry. Slightly shut down, needs at least another year. Tangy wine. Drink 2016-2022. -91 $40.00

2013 Dutton-Goldfield 'Azaya Ranch' Vineyard Pinot Noir- This wine is made from a northwest Marin County vineyard. This opens with aromas of Christmas spice and red cherry followed by flavors of cran-raspberry, mushroom and red cherry. Drink 2015-2022. -92$58.00

2012 Dutton-Goldfield 'Cherry Ridge' Vineyard Syrah- This vineyard is in the Green Valley, north of the Petaluma Wind Gap. This wine was not made in 2010 or 2011 due to coldness of the vintages and ripening issues. This saw 20 months in French oak (40% new). The wine opens with aromas reminiscent of white pepper and smoked meats. Palate has red cherry, white pepper and green bell pepper. This is somewhat shut down at the moment and needs time to express fruit. Drink 2016-2025. -91

2013 Dutton-Goldfield 'Dutton ranch' Chardonnay- Dutton Ranch farms over 80 vineyards in Sonoma. The vineyards selected for this wine include 75% of old vine Chardonnay, over 30 years of age and includes the Mill Station, Walker Hill and Rued vineyards. The wine opens with aromas of buttered popcorn and mango with pear on the nose. Palate has mushroom, pear, golden delicious and vibrant minerality. This is classic Dutton Ranch in the hedonistic style. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2013 Dutton-Goldfield 'Rued Vineyard' Chardonnay- The Rued vineyard is located in an east facing hillside in Green Valley. The vineyards was planted in 1969 and is one of the oldest Sonoma sites for Chardonnay. The wine opens with aromas of pear and pineapple, with golden delicious. Palate has pear, red delicious and starfruit with minerals. Delicious wine that would pair exceptionally well with turkey on Thanksgiving Day. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2014 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Shop-Block’ Pinot Blanc- This Green Valley wine is from a cool site, planted in 2003, that has sandy soils and utilizes dry farming. The wine has a bouquet of bright pear, starfruit and red delicious. Palate has red delicious, vibrant minerality and pear. This seems like a wonderful wine for summer and is novel. Up there with the best Pinot Blanc in Sonoma. Drink 2015-2020. -90

Interview with Victoria Antilla, Wine Director at Chandler's Crabhouse

Chandler's Crabhouse is a northwest favorite for great seafood since 1988. They have been one of my favorite places in Seattle for extraordinarily tasty crab cakes and they make an incredible whiskey crab sou as well. Their wine list has achieved serious acclaim, as they have achieved the award of excellence from Wine Spectator every year since 2008 (wine list: http://www.schwartzbros.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/CCH-wine-list-8.21.2015.pdf). Wine Director, Victoria Antilla has created a Northwest-centric list that has great produces such as Long Shadows, L'Ecole No. 41 and Alexandria Nicole. The pricing is also very reasonable. Great wine by the glass options include the 2014 Alexandria Nicole 'Crawford Vineyard' Viognier ($14.00) or the 2012 L'Ecole No. 41 Chardonnay ($12.00), as well as the 2009 Five Star Cellars Cabernet ($16.00) and the 2010 Hedges Red Blend ($13.00). On the bottle list relative bargains include the 2012 Sbragia 'Home Ranch' Chardonnay ($65.00) as well as the 2013 Long Shadows Poet's Leap ($50.00) and the 2012 McCrea Cellars ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Viognier ($64.00). On the red side there are good values aplenty with the 2009 Five Star Cellars Cabernet ($64.00), the 2012 King Estate Pinot Noir ($68.00) or for a splurge try the 2013 Long Shadows ‘Saggi’ ($105.00), one of the best Super Tuscan Washington Blends out there.

Chandler’s happy hour is also one of the best in Seattle, serving up some fantastic calamari and ceviche. As part of our somm series, I recently had the chance to sit down with Chandler's Crabhouse Wine Director, Victoria Antilla. Vitoria has a management background but fell in love with wine and wanted to become a wine director. She is a fan of the big Washington producers but has a soft spot for French wines as well!

Check out their menu and great wine list at http://www.schwartzbros.com/chandlers-crabhouse/ #chandlerscrabhouse

WWB: What made you want to decide to become a sommelier?

 VA: Wine brings many of subjects I find most interesting together. History, Geology, Sociology,  Chemistry, Botany and more.  Working as a server and bartender exposed me to wine and how much the right wine added to a mealMy first bottle of exceptional wine, 1986 Vieux Telegraph,  Chateau Neuf de Pape turned my interest into a passion.

WWB: What were some of your first jobs in wine like?

VA: My path to wine on a personal level has been intentional, professionally has been much a matter of 'right place right time'. I had resisted going into restaurant management with the intent to go back to school to pursue a degree in brain science, however a wrist injury sidelined my ability to work the floor for several months.  During that time I worked as a manager for Chandler's Crabhouse and discovered and aptitude for it.  The job was made doubly appealing as there was a vacuum of wine knowledge on the management staff and I given the role of store wine director. During that time I was able to take advantage of educational opportunities and attend trade events giving me much needed exposure to wines from around the world

WWB: How did you decide to come to Chandler's Crabhouse?

VA: Schwartz Brothers is a great company to work for, in addition to offering benefits to all full time employees, they also promote from within whenever possible.

WWB: Can you talk about the obstacles in gaining your somm certification and what the process was like for you?

VA: My role as Wine Director for Schwartz Brothers in combination with my role as General Manager leaves little study time. On a positive side, I have the privilege of being exposed to some of the best wine and wine professionals in the world.

WWB: Chandlers has an incredibly impressive wine list, one that's particularly strong with selections from Washington, Oregon and California. What were some of the goals in crafting this exceptional wine list?

VA: The list at Chandler's is so much fun to work with as the clientele is composed largely of tourists from all over the world.  Most of our out of town guest are looking to be introduced to Washington wine, while many of our world travelers enjoy something more familiar to them. Most of our wine sales at Chandler's fall in the $50-$80 price range, I love the challenge of finding the best offering from each region that will pair best with the phenomenal seafood served there.

WWB: Any chances to strengthen the list with more Washington producers? Who are some of your favorite producers of Washington wine?

 VA: Inventory space is limited, so usually if we add a producer, it means we have selected one to go. The in house inventory is over 65% percent Washington wine. Much of the high end Bordeaux and CA wine is cellared at our sister restaurant Daniel's just across the parking lot. Of course we continue to evolve the list, and as we are exposed to more great new up and coming Washington wineries, some will make to the list. Current personal WA wineries are Avennia, Gramercy Cellars,  Chateau Rollat and Reynvaan Family Vineyards. But ask me again next week